Yanggu on the Korean Peninsula front line awakens its once-closed secret spaces… a clear autumn finally permitted - 경향신문

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Autumn is crowded wherever you go. Famous foliage spots draw endless streams of people, and even trips taken in search of calm often end up rushed. Turn your gaze north and the scenery shifts. Yanggu, set on the farthest front line in Gangwon-do, is ideal for savoring a leisurely autumn in unspoiled nature. Walk along the old road that once led to Mount Geumgang, linger in the Haean Basin ringed by mountains and by the gentle waters of Lake Paro. In museums and galleries nestled in nature, encounter the art and culture of Yanggu. For those who need the quietest pause, Yanggu offers a gentle answer.

Dutayeon, where pristine nature meets traces of division.

There is a secret space where footsteps ceased for half a century after the Korean War. It is Dutayeon, hidden within the Civilian Control Line. In its dense forests gorals bound, and in its clear waters lenok live, marking it as an unspoiled region. From here it is only 32㎞ to Mount Geumgang. The memories of former residents who once set out early from Yanggu for day outings to Inner Geumgang linger faintly along this road.

Dutayeon reveals itself only after strict entry procedures. After reservation confirmation and an ID check at the Road to Mount Geumgang Information Center beside the 21st Division Baekdusan Unit, you must drive 10 more minutes along a dusty unpaved road to be allowed to explore Dutayeon. The Course 1 Dutayeon Ecotrail, a loop that passes the Sculpture Park, Dutajeong Pavilion, and a suspension bridge before returning to the start, is popular.

From the start of the trail, inverted-triangle mine markers stand out. Beyond the barbed wire, unconfirmed minefields extend, evoking the distinctive tension of a border zone. Beyond the sculpture park, beneath autumn-colored hillsides, tanks, towed artillery, and self-propelled guns make their weighty presence felt.

Now move onto the path by the stream. With the resonant sound of water, Dutayeon’s hidden scenery draws near. A 10 m-high waterfall, carved as waters rising from Mount Geumgang cut through rock, drops into a large pool below that inspires awe. Seen from Dutajeong, the watercourse curiously resembles the Korean Peninsula. It feels like a quiet message of peace from nature at the line of division.

An exhibit from <Yanggu White Clay, Becoming a Thousand Lights> at the Yanggu White Porcelain Museum.

After filling yourself with Dutayeon’s pristine nature, seek an unexpected local treasure in Bangsan-myeon, Yanggu: white porcelain celebrated for its understated elegance. Bangsan-myeon drew attention as a ceramics production site from the late Goryeo period. During Joseon it supplied raw materials for royal white porcelain. With high-quality white clay, the waters of the Suipcheon, surrounding forests for fuel, and river transport, it was well suited for producing and moving ceramics. Forty excavated kiln sites around Yanggu attest to this brilliant history. At the Yanggu White Porcelain Museum, explore the history and value of white porcelain shaped by earth and water.

The exhibition follows the evolution of Yanggu white porcelain from late Goryeo through Joseon and into the modern era. Once yellowish from mixed impurities, the ware developed over time into increasingly clear, refined hues and patterns. You can feel the artisans’ devotion to achieving a restrained radiance.

The next space is the storage gallery. Visitors step inside to face the porcelains up close. It feels like peering into a secret treasure vault. The exhibition <Yanggu White Clay, Becoming a Thousand Lights>, created by the hands of 1,000 Korean ceramic artists, blends the distinct character and grand energy of each work, prompting constant photo-taking. A theater with a 360-degree panoramic large screen immersively conveys the story of white porcelain.

Step outside the museum and walking paths continue among ceramic sculptures. Red ivy wraps the building walls, and an outdoor garden embroidered with the white trunks of birch and multicolored foliage gathers the entire space into nature’s embrace. After enjoying the garden’s quiet, a route that also takes in Jigyeon Falls behind the museum is recommended.

Park Soo-keun Museum, a space that reflects the modest artistic world of the painter.

Park Soo-keun is a painter beloved by Yanggu. The Park Soo-keun Museum stands in his hometown of Jeongnim-ri, where he first stepped into art. From the outside, the entrance is not immediately visible, giving the building a distinctive form. The granite exterior walls evoke the rough texture characteristic of Park’s paintings. Only by following the approach and curving around the granite wall does the entrance appear. It seems to wish that the journey to meet the artist not be short or light. At the end of that path, a birch rest area and a brook feel as warm as a faithful recreation of Park’s work Washing Place.

Self-taught despite difficult circumstances, Park Soo-keun forged a style of his own, and his artistic spirit pervades each exhibition space. His paintings, which express human goodness and sincerity through the lives of ordinary people, are plain yet truthful. They are also precious records that convey scenes from an era when photographs were scarce. The matiere technique, building up layers of paint to create a granite-like texture, lends his works a unique character.

At the Park Soo-keun Larchiveum, immersive content renders his representative works such as Nongak and Washing Place on screen. Moving on to the Contemporary Art Hall and the Park Soo-keun Pavilion, you can see the Misuk Arts Village special exhibition <The Window of the Artist>. After your visit, head for the outdoor paths. The harmony of the gently colored foliage and architecture blended into nature is superb. Sitting and slipping into contemplation is a perfect way to enjoy this space.

The DMZ Punchbowl Trail embraces the unique topography of the Haean Basin and the history of the Korean War.

Autumn is the ideal season to enjoy trekking. Head to Haean-myeon within the Demilitarized Zone. During the Korean War, a war correspondent saw the concave basin and likened it to a punch bowl, which gave it the name Punch Bowl. The legend behind the toponym is intriguing as well. Because of the humid air, snakes proliferated and plagued the residents; following a monk’s advice, they began to raise pigs, after which the snakes vanished. From then on they replaced the sea 海 character with the pig 亥 character and called it Haean (亥安).

The DMZ Punchbowl Trail, laid out over the rises and dips of the concave Haean Basin, stretches a total of 73.2㎞. It comprises four courses, including Oyu Field Path and Meonmetjae Path, each with its own charm. As it lies in a protected military facility zone with unconfirmed minefields, entry is allowed only after advance reservation. Exploration proceeds in groups under the guidance of a mountain guide.

The place where visitors linger most is Oyu Field Path. With gentle difficulty and fine views, it is an easy walk. As you follow the mild trail, Dosolsan comes into view ahead. Dosolsan was both a strategic point and one of the fiercest battlefields of the Korean War. After a fierce engagement that lasted about two weeks, the Marine Corps achieved victory and recaptured Dosolsan, earning the nickname Invincible Marines.

True to its status as a natural protection area, Oyu Field Path overflows with wildflowers and vivid traces of wildlife. Crossing a native larch forest that grows north of the 38th parallel, you reach the route’s highlight at the Couple Pine overlook. Beyond the two companion pines, you gaze broadly over peaks above 1,000 m such as Daeamsan encircling the Punchbowl Basin. Autumn-colored slopes and the winding old Dolsanryeong road also catch the eye. When you pause and look around, the season’s clamor has quietly vanished.

Sangmuryong Suspension Bridge spanning Lake Paro.

The final stop on an autumn journey in Yanggu is the Sangmuryong Suspension Bridge. Opened in 2022, this bridge crosses Lake Paro for a length of 335 m. Gentle ripples flow beneath your feet, and from the pylons you can take in at a glance autumn-colored peaks such as Seongjubong, Sutdolbong, and Suribong. At sunset, when the glow settles in, the scene of lake and foliage turning red is truly overwhelming.

Along with beautiful scenery, the bridge also fulfilled a long-held wish of residents. Since the completion of Hwacheon Dam, for more than 70 years villagers could reach the town center only by boat; thanks to this solid bridge that connects them to the wider world, that era has ended.